Hakatea Bay has an aura of being a mysterious, historical place, besides looking like the ultimate tropical paradise. After anchoring in the bay, also known as Daniel’s Bay, we walked a short way toward the village. We passed the cemetery high on a hill, with the newest headstones dating back to the early 1900’s. We had to cross a shallow stream before arriving at the town’s “restaurant” and turning right to follow the road that leads through town and to the famous 350 meter high waterfall which is currently dry. Each visitor must pay $10 (to Maurice) toward the maintenance of the road.

It was a brutally hot, humid day, but the dirt road that led past pastoral land, fruit trees and palms, provided a canopy of shade for much of the way. We passed small, simple homes, many grazing horses, cows and chickens. There were ancient remnants of historic foundations and walls that used to be the sites of homes and buildings of the earliest inhabitants. Crossing the stream several more times as we walked was a welcome respite from the heat. We stopped and put our feet in the stream and sat to enjoy the quiet coolness a few minutes each time. The ghosts of ancestors seemed to whisper to us as we sat there, offering to tell us a story of the history of this magical place.

Marnie and I decided since the waterfall was dry, staying to enjoy the stream and a leisurely walk was preferable to hiking 1800 ft of elevation to see the valley of the waterfall. Brent however, was up for the challenge and he separated from us and set off for the rest of the hike.  We met back up with him at the restaurant for lunch after his challenging, sweaty tour. 

Lunch proved to be a wonderful sampling of local Ahi Tuna, fruits and root vegetables for $13 a person, including a refreshing pitcher of juice. The hospitality of Kua the owner was lovely. We would have gladly paid triple for it. As we ate, the restaurant filled up with other hikers trickling in. We heard many different languages being spoken in this remote and exotic place. It made us feel like we were truly in a distant land.

Leave A Comment